Last year I reported on the cruise boom in India, with the Indian government on a mission to boost cruise visitors by building new cruise terminals, and cruise companies keen to tap into the nation’s potential for both international and new domestic cruisers.
The 2024-25 season saw the number of river-cruise journeys in India increase by almost 20 per cent to 443. The government wants to triple the number of river-cruise passengers to 1.5 million over the next few years.
The Ministry of Ports, Shipping and Waterways says India has 20,000 kilometres of navigable waterways and rivers, and it plans to open some up by dredging, constructing berthing facilities and promoting riverside heritage sites.
Over 50 routes on 47 waterways are being explored in feasibility studies. Many are short and aimed at the domestic market, but the Ganges and Brahmaputra in north-east India and waterways of Alappuzha in Kerala are looking to international travellers as well.
In 2023, the ambition was highlighted by the much-hyped “world’s longest river cruise” on the MV Ganga Vilas, which made a 3200-kilometre journey between Varanasi and Dibrugarh along 27 river systems in India and Bangladesh.
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On the Ganges, ships generally operate between Kolkata and Patna, but a few sail the Upper Ganges as far as Varanasi.
The Brahmaputra, one of the world’s biggest rivers, changes names several times between Tibet and the Bay of Bengal and is known as the Jamuna in Bangladesh. Cruises usually sail between Jorhat and Guwahati before joining the Ganges-Hooghly to finish in Kolkata, or else operate on a round-trip from Guwahati.
The Brahmaputra’s cruise attractions include tribal villages, tea plantations, Hindu temples and Buddhist monasteries, and national parks that shelter elephants and rhinos. The Himalayas form a distant backdrop.
Numerous river-cruise lines operate on the Ganges and Brahmaputra, among them Indian companies Adventure River Cruise, Antara and Assam Bengal Navigation, and the international APT, Avalon Waterways, Lindblad Expeditions, Uniworld and Pandaw.
The number of river cruise ships on the Brahmaputra has increased from three a decade ago to 25, aided by the construction of cruise terminals, gangways and other infrastructure.
Viking Cruises begins cruising in India in late 2027, when it launches the 80-guest Viking Brahmaputra, which will have three decks and feature an open-air Sky Bar, spa, fitness centre and staterooms and suites with floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors onto a verandah.
The ship will sail between Guwahati and Nimati Ghat in Assam on an eight-day cruise, part of a longer 15-day “Wonders of India” itinerary that also has a land program to Delhi, Agra and Jaipur.
Highlights of the river cruise include rhino-spotting in Kaziranga National Park, temple visits and the culture of Majuli, one of the world’s largest river islands.
PORT GUIDE
Koblenz, Germany
One of Germany’s prettiest towns in one of its most scenic locations? Look no further than this 2000-year-old settlement on the Rhine.
Who goes there Rhine River cruises are the bread-and-butter of river-cruise companies. Everyone operates here and increasingly year-round, with Christmas markets a highlight of winter. Some itineraries also venture onto the Moselle River. APT, Emerald, Scenic, Travelmarvel, Uniworld and Viking are just some of the operators, and will be joined by new river company Celebrity from 2027.
Sail on in If you aren’t on your ship’s top deck for the arrival into Koblenz then you must be a jaded traveller. The town sits at the confluence of the milky-grey Rhine and pretty blue Moselle, a spot called German Corner marked by a gargantuan equestrian statue of emperor Wilhelm I. Opposite squats one of Europe’s largest fortresses. The two rivers are lined by flower-decorated promenades, and their waters are busy with pleasure craft, day-tripping boats and barges.
Berth rites There are several docking points for river-cruise ships, some along the Rhine and others along the Moselle, but either way you can walk straight into the old town. The most scenic spot is at Konrad-Adenauer-Ufer, the Rhine promenade that leads to the German Corner and eyeballs Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, so fingers crossed.
Going ashore Koblenz, founded by the Romans, is packed with history, but its old town has a lively, lived-in feel that makes wandering a pleasure. Key sights are the venerable Church of Our Lady and the even older Basilica of St Castor. Jesuitenplatz is overlooked by the town hall, a former Jesuit College. Look out for the Spitting Boy trick fountain nearby. The town is so agreeable you needn’t bother with its minor museums, but on a rainy day you might inspect the Picassos of Ludwig Museum or Romantic-era landscape paintings of the Rhine at Mittelrhein Museum.
Don’t miss Ehrenbreitstein Fortress is easily reached by a little cross-river cable car from town. Although there have been fortifications here for a millennium, most of what you see dates from the 19th century. The architecture is brutal rather than pretty and there isn’t much inside, but the views are terrific and the fortress’ open areas are often lively with festivals and other events.
Get active If your cruise doesn’t detour onto the Moselle River then hire an e-bike and set off along the well-signposted cycle route beside this lovely little tributary, flanked by steeply rising vineyards. If you’re up for it, you could ride 2½ hours to storybook-cute Cochem, relax over lunch, then cycle back. For something easier and shorter, stick to Rhine cycle paths heading upstream. The hiking path towards Lahnstein (seven kilometres, sometimes rough going) also produces splendid views.
Best bites Koblenz has three Michelin-starred restaurants, of which both Verbene and Schiller’s Manufaktur are terrific for contemporary vegetarian dishes. Gotthardt’s by Yannick Noack is pricey but shows the often-overlooked sophistication of German cuisine. If you want beer and classic dishes, however, head to Altes Brauhaus for enormous servings of pork knuckle and sausages. Potato (mashed, gratinated or made into dumplings) is a local specialty, so don’t stint on the carbohydrates.
Further afield River-cruise excursions rarely take you far, and in Koblenz tours generally stick to the old town or Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. One exception on every company’s excursion trail is Marksburg Castle 14 kilometres upstream, which you’ll pass while sailing. The mighty castle is the full medieval, fairytale stereotype and has terrific views over the river, although the interior is less exciting. If you’d rather strike out on your own then Stolzenfels Castle, holiday home of Prussian kings, is a bus ride five kilometres south.
EVERYONE ASKS
What do I need to know about days at sea?
A day at sea on your cruise itinerary means the ship doesn’t call at any port but continues sailing. For some this is a wasted destination opportunity, for others the chance to recuperate or enjoy the ship’s amenities.
Extra events, lectures and entertainments are laid on, which will be outlined in your daily newsletter or app. The casino will be open, and shops may offer incentive discounts that part you with your money.
This could be your big chance to indulge in that cruise-ship staple, the afternoon tea, so go easy on lunch.
Be aware that if you want to dine in at a specialty restaurant, have a wellness treatment, enjoy a wine tasting or join a cooking, language, arts or other class, then these are in much higher demand during days at sea, so you’ll need to book in advance.
The same goes for rollercoasters, go-karting, simulated surfing and similar activities on big-budget ships.
Also popular are fitness classes and the swimming pools, so my advice is to get those in early. Many passengers tend to linger late into the evening before a day at sea, then sleep in. On the other hand, the sociable will enjoy the live music and entertainments offered poolside on days at sea.
THE NUMBER
151,000
Capacity in litres of the largest cruise-ship swimming pool (on Icon of the Seas), or 6 per cent the volume of an Olympic-sized pool.