From a tiny apartment in Paris with a two-ring cooker to judging showstopping bakes on The Great Australian Bake Off, Rachel Khoo’s path has required grit and determination.

In her recent memoir, The Smallest Restaurant in Paris, she shares the story of her leap of faith moving to France, alongside the dishes that defined her journey. Here are two of her favourites.

Khoo’s kimchi madame

Drawing inspiration from Rachel Khoo’s early Paris days living with a Korean exchange student, this recipe puts a flavourful spin on the classic croque madame. Tangy kimchi cuts through layers of gooey melted cheese and buttered sourdough for a fresh take on a comfort-food favourite.

INGREDIENTS

  • 2 tbsp creme fraiche
  • salt
  • 40g grated gruyere, comte or other mature flavoursome cheese
  • 40g grated cheddar cheese, mild/young
  • 40g grated mozzarella (squeeze out the water)
  • 4 slices of sourdough bread
  • 4-6 tbsp soft butter
  • 100g kimchi, drained
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 tbsp cress or finely chopped fresh herbs to serve, optional

METHOD

  • In a medium bowl, mix the creme fraiche, a pinch of salt and all the grated cheese together.
  • Butter each slice of bread on one side. Lay two slices of sourdough buttered-side down. Spread a generous layer of the cheese mixture over the unbuttered side. Pile on a good amount of kimchi and spread it evenly. Top with the remaining bread slices with the buttered side facing out.
  • Heat a frying pan over medium heat and melt another tablespoon of butter. Once the butter begins to bubble, add the sandwiches. Cook for 2-3 minutes or until golden. You can use a heavy lid to press the sandwiches down. This creates a crisper crust and helps the cheese melt into the kimchi. Once golden, turn over and cook for a further 2-3 minutes, pressing if required.
  • Heat a little extra butter in a separate frying pan and fry the eggs sunny-side up.
  • Top each sandwich with a fried egg. Garnish with salt and a sprinkle of cress or fresh herbs, if you like. Eat immediately.

Serves 2

Nuns’ farts (pets de nonnes)

Airy choux pastry morsels are fried until golden and puffy, then dusted with icing sugar. Legend has it that a startled French nun accidentally dropped a spoonful of dough into hot oil, creating a pastry so impossibly light and airy that it earned its cheeky moniker.

I NGREDIENTS

  • 110g butter
  • 250ml water
  • pinch of salt
  • 1 tbsp caster sugar
  • 150g plain flour
  • 4 eggs
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • 1.5–2 litres sunflower or other neutral-tasting frying oil
  • 3-4 tbsp icing sugar

METHOD

  • Place the butter, water, salt and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to low and add all the flour. Beat hard. At this point, the mixture will have the consistency of lumpy mashed potatoes. Continue beating until you have a smooth paste that pulls away from the sides of the saucepan and no longer sticks. Transfer to a bowl.
  • Whisk the eggs together in a separate bowl. Beat the warm dough hard to cool it slightly before adding the equivalent of one whisked egg and the vanilla extract. Beat until incorporated, then repeat with the remaining egg in batches. Before adding the last portion of egg, check the consistency. If the batter is already smooth, shiny and easily drops from the spoon, don’t add any more (you don’t want a batter that is too runny).
  • Heat the oil in a large pan to 180C. To test if the oil is at the right temperature without a thermometer, use either a small piece of bread (it should slowly sizzle and turn brown) or a wooden chopstick (small bubbles should form around the end).
  • Gently drop a tablespoon of the batter into the hot oil. Repeat until the pan is two-thirds full. Don’t overcrowd the pan or the dough won’t cook quickly enough and it will soak up the oil. When golden all over, remove the fried dough with a slotted spoon and place on a tray lined with paper towel to drain before transferring to a wire rack. Repeat until all the batter is used. Dust liberally with icing sugar and serve immediately.

Makes 24

This is an edited extract from The Smallest Restaurant in Paris by Rachel Khoo, published by Ultimo Press. Photography by Archie Thomas, styling by Izy Hossack, courtesy of Rachel Khoo.