When it comes to dining out, Fairfield – six kilometres north-east of the CBD – has long lived in the shadows of neighbouring suburbs. It doesn’t have the standard-setting hatted restaurants of Kew, or the once “coolest street in the world” claim to fame of High Street, stretching north from nearby Northcote.
Fairfield’s main drag, Station Street, is often overlooked as somewhat of a thoroughfare, a vein connecting the north and the east. But what is it really? A casual dining cornucopia, bolstered by a brigade of new openings, that deserves more attention.
By no means is it undiscovered, though. “It’s crawling with people, but it’s more of a locals’ strip versus a destination,” says Lily Stuckings, who chose it for her second Gelato Papa location in late 2020, attracted by the “old-school village vibe”. “It’s high quality, though,” she says of the food offering. “Not like it’s been left behind in the ’90s.”
Publican Daniel El-Fahkri had seen many seasons of Station Street before he bought the Grandview Hotel at the Heidelberg Road intersection in 2000. “I grew up on this strip,” he says. His first job in the late ’60s was delivering for a chemist, for 25 cents an hour.
“Back then, it was a shopping strip filled with banks, butcher shops and fruit shops, and a couple of milk bars,” he says. “There was no such thing as a cafe or restaurant [here].”
Much has changed. “My pub used to do a rip-roaring trade in food because there was not a lot else around,” El-Fahkri says. But over 26 years that has lessened, with a snowballing number of new eateries – mostly drop-in, daytime-only spots – further up the street.
“If you don’t reinvent, you don’t catch up,” he says. So, masterminded by his daughter Norah, who’s a co-owner in the business, the El-Fahkris recently flipped the pub’s typical bistro into Lebanese restaurant Sama, heroing their family’s heritage.
“Fairfield has a lot to offer, but it doesn’t have that proper dinner location,” says Norah.
‘Unless you had prior knowledge of the strip, I don’t know that you’d purposefully stop in Fairfield. But there are so many reasons to.’Lily Stuckings, Gelato Papa
Introducing more polished nighttime dining to the street – alongside fellow new arrival Thaali, serving modern Indian cuisine – Sama is working to fill that gap in the market.
“The amount of people who have come [to Sama] who might never have come [to the Grandview] before has been a lot,” says Norah. “They would judge the tired, old facade.”
For Theo Liolios, owner of decades-old chicken shop Rooster Bar, investment in the area from big players – whether locals Oasis and Niko’s, or national chain Guzman y Gomez – has helped build momentum. “It’s slowly evolved into a food hub,” he says.
“From what we’ve seen, general trade has picked up,” Liolios continues. “I’ve been all over Melbourne, and I think [Station Street] is up there with the busiest streets for its size.”
Stuckings sees untapped potential. “Unless you’d been going to [iconic Station Street butcher] Brenta Meats for 20 years ... or you had prior knowledge of the strip, I don’t know that you’d purposefully stop in Fairfield. But there are so many reasons to.”
Station Street is a thoroughfare with thoroughly good fare. Here’s where to stop and snack along the Fairfield strip, starting at its Heidelberg Road end and working your way north, dipping into a couple of side streets along the way.
Sama
There’s a new lure at longstanding Heidelberg Road pub the Grandview. The 50-seat bistro has been transformed into a soulful Lebanese restaurant drawing on its owners’ roots. Family photos make it homey, but linen-draped tables and a tradition-tweaking menu make Samaone of the area’s more occasion-worthy diners. Tabbouleh comes in lettuce cups; crisp whitebait mingles with pita crisps and tahini yoghurt, remixing the popular Middle Eastern dish of fatteh; and charcoal-grilled proteins are a centrepiece. And cocktails? Try an anise-tinged raspberry number with arak. So popular is Sama that the family are working on a 30-seat wine bar, Sama Meze, which will open mid-October in a room that once housed the pub’s pokies.
429 Heidelberg Road, Fairfield, grandviewhotelfairfield.com/sama
K Crunch
It’s in the name: expect off-the-charts crunch factor at this new Korean fried chicken shop, just down from the train line. There are few airs and graces to the space, but it lets the chook do the talking. Wings and thighs are double-dredged and flavoured to your liking. But the burgers are where it’s at, built on squishy Martin’s potato rolls, anchored by incredibly crisp and craggy KFC and either house-made dill ranch or spicy mayo. Crunch time continues with all the sides: chips, onion rings and mini hash browns.
2/83 Station Street, Fairfield, instagram.com/kcrunch_fairfield
Treble
Step off the train at Fairfield Station and straight into Treble, a new player in the suburb’s cafe game. Locals eagerly awaited the opening and it’s already proving a crowd-pleaser, with a menu as sprawling as the benchtop of freshly baked goods (cinnamon scroll alert). Traditionalists can get their avo smashed, or eggs Benedict-ed one of three ways. But there’s also a dedicated vegan menu, plus curveball items like chimichurri-coated steak and eggs for a protein hit in the leafy courtyard.
21-23 Railway Place, Fairfield, treblefairfield.com.au
Rocket Wine
Fairfield’s busiest bar and bottle-o is best enjoyed at golden hour in the new parklet, with a front-row seat to the neighbourhood’s cutest dogs and your whistle wet with a dirty vermouth and tonic (like a briny martini, but more weeknight-friendly). Wines of the world line the walls and fridges, providing hundreds of budget and blowout options to take home or crack open right there with a flat $20 corkage fee. If your hunger calls for more than fancy cheese and chips, order a pizza from Flour + Salt across the road.
28 Railway Place, Fairfield, instagram.com/rocketwinestore
Gelato Papa
Seasonal, small-batch specials mean that every visit to the suburb’s go-to gelateria is a lucky dip. The shiny, stainless-steel pozzetti hold limited-edition flavours like prickly pear or hot cross bun, alongside permanent fixtures like the standout honeycomb choc-chip (tip: add extra honeycomb). Flavours are all natural, made from scratch and even go into elaborate gelato cakes – vegan bombe Alaska, anyone?
72A Station Street, Fairfield, gelatopapa.com.au
Niko’s
We’re 20 kilometres from Melbourne’s Greek heartland, where the 40-year-old Niko’s cake shop has become an Oakleigh institution. But, happily for northsiders, seven years ago it also sprouted this microcosm of the original.
Tucked off Station Street, the all-day eatery heaves with early morning frappe-sippers through to late-night dessert-seekers, with a frontage that completely retracts to let the outside in on balmy days. The offering is vast and varied, but highlights include triangular slabs of spanakopita (one of many house-baked pies) and classic Greek biscuits, stars of a sweets cabinet that stretches the width of the store.
254-262 Wingrove Street, Fairfield, nikoscakes.com.au
Allegria Pasta
It’s shopping up front and snacking out back at two-pronged pasta paradise Allegria. Right on the footpath is an L-shaped, open-air shopfront selling handmade pastas and sauces to take home; the family-sized ragu lasagne is an easy weeknight win. Connected to the shop is an al fresco cafe for coffees and quick lunchtime pastas in the sunshine.
86 Station Street, Fairfield, allegriapasta.com.au
Brenta Meats
Perhaps Station Street’s most enduring drawcard is Brenta, a butcher shop whose clientele travels from near and far. House-made sausages are a specialty (the pork and fennel are stellar), as are spit roasts, plus your preferred protein can be deboned, rolled or seasoned as you like. Find Brenta’s own cured meats in the back fridge with cheeses and other antipasti, next to a whole wall of Italian dry goods. Service is so refreshingly old-school that your butcher might hold the door open for you as you leave.
103 Station Street, Fairfield, brentameats.com
Oak & Young
There’s more than meets the eye at compact, waste-conscious wine shop Oak & Young. Beyond the bottles – and behind the counter – are 20 taps pouring small-batch wines that come in refillable bottles for $24. There are even cocktails like a limoncello spritz. Once you’re done, just rinse the bottle and return to get a refill for $19. It’s a reward for leaning into the sustainable ethos. The shop also stocks some bigger-ticket French and Italian varieties, a handful of bittersweet amari, and craft beer tinnies in the fridge.
107 Station Street, Fairfield, oakandyoung.com.au
Oasis
Is there a bigger name than Oasis for Middle Eastern groceries in Melbourne? Even if you’ve never shopped at its family-run Fairfield or Murrumbeena locations, you’ve likely seen its branded creations (dips, breads, spices et al.) in indie supermarkets. Go direct to the source on Station Street, where an airy cafe deals in breakfast mezze platters and falafel wraps, and the adjoining grocer is made for overspending and overindulging, its aisles flush with mostly – but not strictly – Middle Eastern products.
92-96 Station Street, Fairfield, oasisonline.com.au
Spitaki Souvlaki
Believe the slogan emblazoned on the facade of this souvlaki shop: “Grouse Greek, No Malakies” (which loosely translates to “no nonsense” in Greek). Souvas are stuffed to within an inch of their lives with charry meats and hand-cut chips; the mixed grill is piled high with the likes of biftekia (rissoles) and loukaniko (sausage); and loukomades – either honey- or Nutella-drizzled doughnuts – are a sweet finisher. Spitaki does a roaring takeaway trade, but if you dine there Greek live music might soundtrack your meal.
115 Station Street, Fairfield, spitakisouvlaki.com
Assa Korean BBQ
This good-for-groups Korean joint allows you to choose your own adventure. In the mood to DIY? Order a premium wagyu set, fire up the barbecue and grill to your heart’s content, sharing a variety of banchan, the small side dishes that are included in the price. Or go hands off, with traditional stews and sizzling plates from the kitchen. Either road will likely detour to Korean fried chicken. Mix-and-match flavours including snow butter, which is sprinkled with a garlic seasoning.
106 Station Street, Fairfield, instagram.com/assa_koreanbbq_fairfield
Harvest Food Store
First as Organic Gertrude and now as Harvest Food Store, this site has been all about organics for more than two decades. The welcoming, family-run spot is part cafe, part grocer. Pull up a seat for produce-driven brekkie plates that encourage you to eat the rainbow, then peruse the shelves and fridges throughout the slender space. They’re stocked with seasonal fruit and veg, upmarket pantry staples and organic meats.
108 Station Street, Fairfield, harvestfoodstore.com.au
Kneadful Things
An offshoot of Carlton North’s Natural Tucker, which claims to be “Melbourne’s oldest traditional sourdough bakery”, Kneadful Things flies the flag in Fairfield. Breads of all shapes and sizes blanket the back wall, with daily specials from jalapeno and cheese to spiced carrot and walnut. Definitely get a loaf to go, but don’t go past the pie warmer, layered with flaky house-made classics (sausage rolls included) that give the sourdough a run for its money. Also for sale: locally made Jam Lady jams, such as sherry and onion.
116 Station Street, Fairfield, instagram.com/naturaltuckerbakeries
Thaali
At this modern Indian newcomer (one of the strip’s few upscale diners), the menu is substantial but the namesake thali offers a deliciously shareable snapshot. A tray so large it needs its own table is filled with a chef’s selection of curries from across India, rice and naan, assorted condiments, and more. Veering from tradition are starters like the burrata-topped naan, and inventive cocktails including a vodka-spiked version of aam panna, an Indian drink made of unripe mangoes and spiced with cumin. If the street-facing dining room is full, slip down the side into a colourful, weatherproofed courtyard.
120 Station Street, Fairfield, instagram.com/thaaliaus
Nouha’s Bakery
The sheer volume of the music – and the size of the crowd enjoying it – might have you thinking: impromptu DJ set? Not quite. Middle Eastern bakery Nouha’s serves vibes as good as its bakes from a street-side coffee window that’s always staffed by a friendly face, and an inside display that’s always packed to the rafters. What’ll it be: triple-cheese pie, sujuk and egg boat, lamb-kofta foldover, all of the above? Decision fatigue is real, with a range that includes everything from brekkie wraps to well-priced pizzas.
122 Station Street, Fairfield, nouhasbakery.com
Rooster Bar
What this charcoal-powered chicken shop lacks in frills, it makes up for in thrills. You can smell it before you see it, as whole chooks are flame-licked on a rotisserie in the front window. But, surprisingly, another menu item rules the roost. Most of the masses are there for the bestselling chicken-fillet burger. At $11.50, it’s a steal. But it’s also a masterclass in simplicity: just a juicy breast fillet, lettuce and mayo in a pudgy pita-esque roll. Its schnitzel counterpart is also worth your time, as are the hot chips.
128 Station Street, Fairfield, roosterbar.com.au
Little Naples
Passionate Italian pizzaiolo Andrea Cozzolino has channelled his hometown of Naples – and decades of pizza-making – into a pizzeria with two locations: one in Fairfield, another in nearby Ivanhoe. The least involved pizzas are often the most impressive, like the cheese-free marinara, simply topped with San Marzano tomatoes, garlic and oregano. There’s some very casual seating for those wanting to eat their leopard-spotted pizza fresh out the oven, or takeaways are slid into signature pink boxes.
145B Station Street, Fairfield, littlenaples.pizza
Tasty Banh Mi
This banh mi shop is so vegan-friendly that it makes its tofu in-house, spices it with lemongrass and stuffs it into shatteringly crisp tiger rolls. But Tasty Banh Mi doesn’t just cater to the plant-based population; the headlining crispy pork is thick-cut, crackling-encrusted and consistently appeases the queues of teens and tradies. A new drinks list goes hard on the green stuff, featuring a matcha made “dirty” with espresso.
146B Station Street, Fairfield, instagram.com/tasty_banh_mi