• READ MORE: Europe's most valuable beach is just two hours from the UK – and it's worth £720 million
• See more Daily Mail on Google - save us as a Preferred Source

Standing in a quiet corner of St Mary's Church in Scarborough, I gaze at the gravestone of Anne Bronte, who died in this North Yorkshire seaside resort in 1849 aged just 29. The peaceful spot overlooks South Bay, where pavements are heaving with day trippers.

Nowadays, visitors flock to Scarborough for fish and chips and, of course, the beaches.

But Anne came to Scarborough when it was rising in popularity in the 1800s, although its famous spa waters were discovered earlier, in 1626, marking the creation of the UK's first seaside resort.

Exactly 400 years on, most now come for its classic charm. South Bay beach is packed with families playing in the sand, as I did with my parents years ago.

Along the promenade I recognise many shops from my childhood, including a bucket-and-spade seller and John Bull's World of Rock, a family-run confectioners.

Some buildings appear a touch rough around the edges, obviously having had to battle many a sandy wind. And yes, there's plenty of seaside tat, though that's all part of the charm.

Scarborough's South Bay is often bustling with families enjoying time together on the beach

Alesia with a (giant) ice cream on Scarborough seafront

I pick up a peach and mango twist from Harbour Bar (£3.25), an ice-cream parlour dating from 1945.

Instead of sitting inside, I stand by the harbour and listen to a man calling out for 'any more sailors' to join his next boat trip.

A child passes clutching a Mr Whippy that's about the same size as his head. It's dribbling down his hand as his dad hurries him along.

For old time's sake, I squeeze in a visit to the arcades. My brother and I used to relish collecting spare change before our visits. Coney Island and Olympia Leisure were some of our favourite spots.

After an hour, I depart with a cheap toy and fewer pounds in my pocket than when I entered, feeling childishly gleeful.

It's not a trip to Scarborough without eating fish and chips. Winking Willy's has been my family's favourite restaurant for years.

They don't disappoint this time around either, and I'm handed a big plate of crispy haddock and chips (£15.90).

Eventually I retreat to my hotel, the Bike and Boot, a short walk from South Bay. Around the corner is the Grand Hotel, which opened in 1867 as 'the largest and handsomest hotel in Europe'.

Scarborough's North Bay is a much quieter spot than South Bay

Scarborough's North Bay feels like another world. The beach has been recognised for its cleanliness, unlike South Bay, where the Environment Agency last year classified the water as 'poor'.

Peasholm Park, which opened in 1912, is a few minutes walk from the North Bay and has dragon-shaped pedalos to hire.

It's been a lovely trip down memory lane, and I head home with a bag of sticky, sweet treats.