Nainan’s

For generations of Chennai food lovers, Ninan’s Restaurant has been more than a place to eat. Nestled within the historic YMCA building at Esplanade, opposite the Madras High Court, this 70-year-old-old establishment continues to serve food that evokes nostalgia and tradition in equal measure.

Among its offerings, the parotta (₹30) with mutton curry (₹270) remains a favourite. On my recent visit, the parottas arrived fresh from the tava — soft, flaky, and light, served with a and flavourful mutton curry. The generous portion of curry comfortably paired with two parottas, and an extra helping of gravy was readily available on request. A chilled fresh lime drink completed the meal, providing a refreshing contrast to the robust flavours.

Founded by the late KA Ninan, the restaurant is now managed by the second and third generations of the family, Alexander Ninan and his son Tarun. While preserving the restaurant’s cherished culinary traditions, they have also introduced popular snacks such as sandwiches, samosas, French fries and cutlets.

Stepping into the restaurant feels like entering another era. Thick red-brick walls, graceful arches and soaring ceilings create a unique ambience that modern eateries can scarcely replicate. The heritage structure, built in 1899, remains naturally cool and inviting.

No visit to Ninan’s is complete without dessert. Their legendary caramel custard (₹70) continues to delight diners with its silky texture and perfect sweetness. Decades after my first taste, it remains as memorable as ever.

Ninan’s Restaurant is at the YMCA Building, NSC Bose Road, Parry’s. A meal for two, ranges between ₹400 and ₹800.

SAMCO

Few restaurants can claim a legacy spanning more than six decades, but SAMCO has done just that while remaining a beloved name in Chennai’s dining scene.

The story began in 1962 when three young entrepreneurs — Soopy, Ahmed, and Mohammed — from a small town near Kozhikode in Kerala set out in search of opportunities in the food business. After travelling and exploring neighbouring countries, they eventually arrived in Madras and opened a restaurant that bore the initials of their names: SAMCO.

From its humble beginnings, the brand has grown into a thriving chain with branches across Teynampet, Velachery, Anna Nagar, Mogappair, and Pallavaram. The flagship outlet at the junction of Eldams Road and Mowbrays Road continues to be the heart of the enterprise, now managed by the third generation of the founding families.

During a recent visit, Mohamed Sinan, the 24-year-old grandson of one of the founders, introduced me to the restaurant’s most celebrated offering — the mutton dum biryani (₹420). The first spoonful revealed fragrant basmati rice, tender pieces of mutton and a subtle sweetness that immediately distinguished it from conventional biriyanis. According to Sinan, this delicate sweetness is intentional, designed to awaken the palate, and enhance the overall flavour experience.

While the biryani remains a star attraction, SAMCO’s menu offers several other favourites. The parotta paired with rich butter chicken continues to delight diners of all ages, while younger patrons often gravitate towards the pepper chicken barbecue (₹365).

Another highlight is the mandi biryani, an Arabian specialty that has earned a loyal following. Featuring fragrant rice cooked in meat broth and topped with mildly spiced, slow-roasted chicken or mutton, it offers a distinctly different experience from traditional Indian biryanis.

Hotel SAMCO is on Eldams Road, Alwarpet. A meal for two costs between ₹800 and ₹1,200.

Hotel Paramount

Established in 1989 by K Altaf Hussain, an entrepreneur known as much for his philanthropy as his business acumen, Hotel Paramount has spent over three decades building a loyal clientele through its commitment to good food and warm hospitality.

At one time, the brand operated several outlets across Chennai, including a well-known branch in Anna Nagar. Over the years, however, the management chose to focus exclusively on its flagship restaurant on Ormes Road, Kilpauk, concentrating its efforts on maintaining the standards that had earned the establishment its reputation.

Today, the legacy is carried forward by Mushahid Hussain, son of the founder. While Hotel Paramount serves a wide range of cuisines, from Indian and Mughlai to Indo-Chinese specialities, it remains best known for a handful of iconic dishes that have stood the test of time.

“One of our most highly rated specialities is the paya curry (between ₹360 and ₹600 for portions),” says Mushahid. “Since we have our own meat shop, we are able to source premium-quality paya directly. This allows us to maintain consistency and serve only the best to our customers.”

On a recent visit, I decided to revisit this house speciality. Although appams, often considered the ideal accompaniment, are not available during lunch service, the chapatis offered an excellent alternative. Thick, soft and layered, they possessed an almost parotta-like texture that paired beautifully with the rich curry.

The paya itself was everything one would hope for — the pieces contained the perfect balance of skin, fat and meat, while the gravy was comforting, almost soup-like in consistency. A chilled glass of fresh lime juice completed the meal, adding a refreshing contrast to the richness of the dish. For many regulars, however, a steaming cup of dum tea remains the classic companion.

Regular patrons swear by favourites such as butter chicken, tandoori chicken, mutton salli, chicken and mutton kuruma, chicken 65, signature chilli chicken and the restaurant’s popular biryani.

More than 35 years after its founding, Hotel Paramount continues to draw diners not through gimmicks or fleeting food trends, but through honest cooking, generous portions and prices that remain remarkably accessible.

Hotel Paramount is on 2/5, Ormes Road, near CSI Bain School, Kilpauk. A meal for two costs between ₹600 and ₹800.

Opal Inn

The story of Chennai’s hospitality industry is intertwined with the journeys of enterprising individuals who arrived from neighbouring states and made the city their home. Among them was PV John, who came from Kerala in 1972 with a vision and a passion for hospitality. That vision eventually took shape as Hotel Ranjith, a name that has become familiar to generations of Chennai residents.

Located on the ground floor of the hotel, Opal Inn soon established itself as a dependable dining destination. More than five decades later, the restaurant continues to thrive under the stewardship of the family’s third generation, represented by Ranjith John.

While many restaurants have reinvented themselves to keep pace with changing trends, Opal Inn has succeeded by staying true to its core values of quality, consistency and attentive service. “Our menu offers a wide variety of Chinese, tandoori and Continental dishes, all prepared with a strong emphasis on freshness, flavour and presentation,” says Ranjith John. “We want every guest to enjoy a memorable dining experience, whether they are visiting us for the first time or have been coming here for years.”

Among the restaurant’s most popular dishes are Afghani chicken, crab cutlets, fish Malabar and an array of continental classics that have built a loyal following over the years. Separate chefs manage the Indian, Chinese, continental and tandoori kitchens, ensuring that each cuisine retains its unique character.

“It is certainly a more expensive model to maintain,” explains Ranjith John. “But it allows us to preserve the integrity of every cuisine and offer guests an experience that is becoming increasingly rare.”

Having sampled their well-known sizzlers and steaks on previous visits, I opted this time for the jumbo garlic prawns (₹1,190). The dish arrived on a generous platter featuring six impressively large prawns. Perfectly cooked and wonderfully succulent, the prawns retained their natural sweetness, enhanced by a delicate garlic sauce that complemented rather than overpowered the seafood. The secret, I was told, lies in the sourcing. Fresh prawns are delivered directly by fishermen each morning.

Dessert proved equally memorable. The Opal Inn special (₹325) is an indulgent creation layered with fruits, jelly, caramelised nuts and three varieties of ice cream, finished with a generous drizzle of chocolate sauce. For a lighter option, the tender coconut chiller (₹265) offers a delicate coconut-flavoured soufflé topped with a bright red cherry.

Opal Inn’s enduring popularity is a testament to a simple philosophy: serve good food, maintain high standards, and treat every guest as a valued patron.

Opal Inn at Hotel Ranjith is located on Nungambakkam High Road. A meal for two could be anywhere between ₹1,000 and ₹3,000.

Tangerine

For nearly a quarter of a century, Tangerine has stood apart in Chennai’s dining landscape, offering a unique blend of fusion continental cuisine and sizzling platters. Founded by Manjula and Arun Rao 24 years ago, the restaurant was born out of a dream to create a fine-dining destination where every dish would be memorable.

“When we started Tangerine, we wanted every dish to be a signature creation, both in concept and name,” says Arun Rao. “The idea was that diners would find flavours and combinations here that they could not find elsewhere.” The result is a menu dominated by creatively named steaks and sizzlers that have earned a loyal following over the years. “Most of our menu consists of sizzlers and steaks, whether it is chicken, mutton, or fish,” adds Manjula. “That has always been our strength.”

During a recent lunch visit, I was presented with several tempting choices, each promising a unique culinary experience. Unable to decide, I entrusted the selection to Manjula, who recommended the fillet of fish ‘moutarde’ (₹720). The dish arrived dramatically on a sizzling platter, accompanied by sautéed vegetables and a refreshing fresh lime soda. Tender slices of mahi mahi had been marinated with mustard, red chilli flakes, oregano, garlic, and olive oil. The mustard was subtle rather than overpowering, enhancing the fish’s delicate flavour while allowing its natural freshness to shine through.

Other intriguing dishes on the menu include steak Josephine Baker (₹750), served with a rich mushroom pepper sauce; chicken desiree (₹620), featuring grilled boneless chicken in a spiced honey and lemon sauce; and grilled tenderloin denia, marinated with Mediterranean spices, mustard, brown sugar, and fresh basil.

The menu remains dynamic, with new dishes introduced every year before Christmas. Customer feedback plays a crucial role in determining which dishes stay and which are retired. “More than 80% of our guests are repeat customers,” says Arun. “Their opinions help shape our menu.”

After spending 22 years in the corporate world, the Raos took the bold step of turning their passion for food into a profession. Their hands-on involvement remains one of Tangerine’s defining characteristics.

Tangerine is on Murrays Gate Road, Venus Colony, Alwarpet. A meal for two will cost around ₹1,500.

Published - July 30, 2026 12:49 pm IST