When popular British cook and author Rachel Khoo swapped fashion PR life in London for Le Cordon Bleu culinary school in Paris, little did she know it would lead to a television career that would kick off in Australia – beginning with SBS’s The Little Paris Kitchen back in 2013.
Since then, there have also been celebrity judging gigs at My Kitchen Rules and Zumbo’s Just Desserts, but it’s The Great Australian Bake Off, returning for season nine on August 11, that has her happily returning to Sydney each year.
“I love coming to Australia, and even though it’s so far away, I pinch myself that I have my dream job. It’s what I love to do.”
It is indeed a long way from home, which, since leaving Paris in 2016, is now a seaside Swedish village, where she has happily settled with her husband and three children.
There’s also a new book, The Smallest Restaurant in Paris, a memoir packed with recipes and her first foray into long-form storytelling.
“I’m no Pulitzer Prize writer, but I wanted there to be a real sense of connection between the stories and the recipes. I got myself a writing coach for the project,” says Khoo of the book, which took six years to write.
“It’s not a blog or a Substack. This is a far more detailed journey about my life and love of food, and one I am proud of.”
Khoo took some time out of her busy schedule to share some of her food favourites at home and away.
Eating Out
Favourite home town restaurant (and go-to dish)
I live in a seaside village in Sweden, and there is really nothing there, dining-wise. I make up for it when I am visiting Paris, four times a year. A favourite place I go to is called Le Café du Coin. They offer a three-course meal during the week for less than €30 ($49). The ambience is wonderful. I recently ate beautiful white asparagus, which were kind of meaty and juicy, with a simple vinaigrette on top.
I am also regularly at Mamiche bakery. They have two locations in Paris, in the 9th and 10th arrondissements, and they make a great rustic dark sourdough loaf, stuffed with dried fruit.
Favourite Parisian cafes and bars
I like to order a latte at a great bakery called Ten Belles. They were one of the first new-wave bakeries that doubled as a cafe and coffee place. They also make amazing sandwiches.
I love going to L’Avant Comptoir – a bistro with counter service with small tapas-style plates. The wine list is great. There are now five of them dotted around Paris to try.
Brasserie Le Zinc is very French – the service is fast and it’s great for solo diners. I love to have a glass of bubbly there. Crémant is a very underrated quality French sparkling wine, and when I lived in Paris, I’d always order it because it was more accessible and affordable than champagne, and just as nice.
Le Grain de Riz is run by a Vietnamese lady who cooks in the kitchen and has done so for the past 15 years. I love the bo bun with lemongrass pork.
My favourite food city
It has to be London. I love The Barbary in Covent Garden (and also now in Notting Hill). They have an open fire and grill right in front of you − it’s a very intimate space. They also make their own bread in the tandoor oven. I loved the chargrilled octopus with salad. The aubergine (eggplant) was also fab.
The Impala in Soho is another fire-focused restaurant that’s quite fancy. LMA is a little more refined and elevated. Watching the chefs cook is all part of the experience. I ate veal sweetbreads made in a very rich gravy sauce, deliciously tender with a shaved fennel salad on the side. I also loved the octopus.
French-Asian artisan Arôme Bakery has two locations in London – one is behind Selfridges [department store], and the other in Covent Garden. There is always a queue. The pastry laminations are spot on, and they make an amazing egg custard. The savoury croissants are great, too. For a good coffee, I like to go to Oma Coffee Roaster.
Brawn is a neighbourhood restaurant that has been around a long time and serves great natural wines. It’s seasonal British food, but with a Mediterranean touch.
**In Melbourne **
I haven’t visited Melbourne for a few years, but when I do get back there my first stop will be Roma, where chef Matt Wilkinson is these days − it’s on my list to visit. Matt is so talented, and I absolutely love what he does with his cooking.
Lune Croissanterie is always a regular stop when I am in town. Kate Reid is amazing. She has grown a croissant empire, which is brilliant to see.
In Sydney
I loved going to Saint Peter by Josh Niland for his brilliant take on seafood – his cooking is genius. I have Josh’s cookbooks at home, and find his techniques so interesting – nothing I’d ever do myself, but I have so much admiration for it. Ice-cream made with fish eyeballs!
Like every Pom who comes to Sydney, I am always in Bondi. I have my ritual of going to Bakery on Glenayr – the coffee is good, and they make a great quinoa loaf and excellent seeded sourdough bread. For ice-cream, it’s Mapo, also in Bondi, where I love the Amarena sour cherry swirl.
I love trying Asian food when I am in Sydney. My co-hosts and friends Darren Purchese and Natalie Tran from the show took me to King Clarence for my birthday. The duck is an absolute winner.
I took my kids to the Royal Palace Seafood Restaurant in Haymarket because the kids love the trolley service and it’s how I grew up as a kid in Chinatown in London. It’s a tradition that has died out there, and it was such a new experience for my kids.
I also love going to Tenacious Croissant for all the pastries. I could eat baked goods all day and love the sweet spicy pork snag. Tokyo Lamington takes lamingtons to another level. I always have to get a box when I’m in that part of town. I’m partial to the fairy bread one.
On my days off from filming, I go for a Japanese breakfast at Cool Mac cafe for the onigiri set – Natalie Tran from Bake Off first took me here.
Eating in
Signature dish when cooking at home
Chocolate mousse. I make this with my kids every Friday. The breakfast recipe I make when I’m filming in Australia is mango, papaya, passionfruit, fresh chilli, a squeeze of lime and my granola on top, with yoghurt hiding at the bottom.
My guilty pleasure
There’s no such thing as a guilty pleasure – just enjoy what you choose and make sure you go for the best. I do love Kettle salt and vinegar chips.
The kitchen wisdom I cling to
It’s not really about the cooking. It’s about sitting down with a cup of tea, being present and taking a moment to share it with other people you love.
The Smallest Restaurant in Paris by Rachel Khoo is published by Ultimo Press. RRP $36.99
The Great Australian Bake Off returns to Foxtel and Binge on August 11.
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